News

Ticino

31.03.2008

Once again I headed to Ticino in southern Switzerland where it was prime conditions most of the time. This trip I also spend more time working on projects and finding new stuff instead of just repeating old problems.

I put up a very good new problem in Ticino called ‘Side Effect’. You walk straight to the river from Marilyn Monroe. There’s a big overhanging block in the riverbed. It climbs the right side of the wall starting from a big jug. It has long moves in the start and then a very nice Font like topout. Grade is probably around 7C+.

Confessions is a beautiful and steep aręte in Cresciano put up by Dave Graham. I did the first repeat even though the problem isn’t that new. You climb all the way your left hand under the roof side and right hand slapping the aręte. There is a double heelhook for the crux move that helps a lot, but in the end I decided just to dyno through the crux since the heel didn’t seem to stay. It is one of the best arętes for sure.

Midnight Lightning of Ticino 7C+in Schattental of Chironico is also a proud line that you rarely see anyone trying. Even though it has a pretty good child lock in the start the moves higher up aren’t that reachy.

Conditions should be getting good in Finland right now so I’m heading there for a short while before Hall World Cup.

Here´s my ticklist from this trip:

Mr. Pinch 8A+ No way 8A+
Mr. Jump 8A+ Soft
Blox Addiction 8A+ Would someone give me the right sequence!!Mine wasn’t 8A+…
La Soucoupe 8B
Midnight Lightning of Ticino 7C+
nameless? 8A+
Side Effect 7C+ FA
That Goes Left 8A Flash ,Soft
La Boule 8A/+
Sent of Snow 8A
Confessions 8B+
nameless? 7C+
Rah Plats Plats 8A
Frostheaves 8A+
Electric Ant 8B
Vechia Leone 8B
Orange County 8A

La Soucoupe pic by Heikki Toivanen, other pics Nalle Hukkataival Collection

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